PHILOMENA ZANETTI Spring Summer 2017 MBFW Berlin

Gewohnt minimalistisch zeigte sich auch diese Saison wieder das Berliner Label Philomena Zanetti auf der Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Berlin. Schauplatz der Show war der Me-collectors Room in Berlin-Mitte.

Vor nur zwei Jahren gründete Designerin Julia Leifert ihr Label Philomena Zanetti, das sie nach ihrer Urgroßmutter aus Südtirol benannte. Für Leifert symbolisiert der Name die Nähe zur Natur, was damit zu der Philosophie ihres Labels passt: nachhaltige Kleidung im High-End Bereich anzubieten.

Ursprünglich studierte die junge Designerin Jura. Ihr Interesse galt allerdings schon immer der Mode, weshalb sie nebenbei selber schneiderte. Schließlich begann sie ihr Studium in Modedesign und fand so ihren Weg in die Modebranche.

Für die aktuelle Spring Summer 2017 Kollektion ließ sich Julia Leifert von dem Konstruktivismus in der sowjetischen Architektur inspirieren. Helle Farben, klare Linien und geometrische Elemente sind in ihren Looks wiederzuerkennen. Daneben ergibt sich ein Zusammenspiel verschiedenster teils futuristisch anmutender Materialien. Am außergewöhnlichsten sind das weiße Schürzenkleid aus Papier und der dunkle Mantel aus Kork. Auch für ihre Seide müssen keine Larven verenden. Stattdessen wird sie gewonnen, nachdem sie geschlüpft sind. Viele Teile der Kollektion sind aus Bio-Baumwolle, die oft nicht einmal gefärbt ist.

Die Kollektion umfasst Hosen in allen Längen. Shorts, Bermudas und lange Hosen gibt es in Weiß-, Rosa-, und Beigetönen. Was sie alle gemeinsam haben ist der breite Schnitt. Kombiniert werden die Unterteile mit weißen oder rosafarbenen Blusen. Das Besondere an diesen sind die Knopfleisten, die sich nicht wie gewöhnlich vorne befinden, sondern am Rücken. Außerdem ist nicht jeder der Knöpfe geschlossen, sondern nur die oberen zwei, was den Blick auf den Rücken freilässt. Vervollständigt wird der Look am Fuß mit Birkenstocks in Weiß und Pink, in denen mitunter auch kurze weiße, oder knielange beigefarbene Socken getragen werden.

Generell geht es in der Mode von Philomena Zanetti mehr um die Materialien, als um Fast-Fashion Trends. Das macht sich auch in der aktuellen Kollektion erneut bemerkbar. Die Schnitte sind clean und sportlich. Jeder Look wirkt sehr lässig und ist damit tragbar für alle Liebhaber des Labels.

Autor: Janina Oehlbrecht – Fotos: Mercedes-Benz Fashion

PHILOMENA ZANETTI Spring Summer 2017 MBFW Berlin – Kollektionsfotos

BERLIN, GERMANY – JUNE 29: A model walks the runway at the Philomena Zanetti show during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2017 at Stage at me Collectors Room on June 29, 2016 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for IMG)

BERLIN, GERMANY – JUNE 29: A model walks the runway at the Philomena Zanetti show during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2017 at Stage at me Collectors Room on June 29, 2016 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for IMG)

BERLIN, GERMANY – JUNE 29: A model walks the runway at the Philomena Zanetti show during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2017 at Stage at me Collectors Room on June 29, 2016 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for IMG)

BERLIN, GERMANY – JUNE 29: A model walks the runway at the Philomena Zanetti show during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2017 at Stage at me Collectors Room on June 29, 2016 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for IMG)

BERLIN, GERMANY – JUNE 29: A model walks the runway at the Philomena Zanetti show during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2017 at Stage at me Collectors Room on June 29, 2016 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for IMG)

BERLIN, GERMANY – JUNE 29: A model walks the runway at the Philomena Zanetti show during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2017 at Stage at me Collectors Room on June 29, 2016 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for IMG)

BERLIN, GERMANY – JUNE 29: A model walks the runway at the Philomena Zanetti show during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2017 at Stage at me Collectors Room on June 29, 2016 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for IMG)

BERLIN, GERMANY – JUNE 29: A model walks the runway at the Philomena Zanetti show during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2017 at Stage at me Collectors Room on June 29, 2016 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for IMG)

BERLIN, GERMANY – JUNE 29: A model walks the runway at the Philomena Zanetti show during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2017 at Stage at me Collectors Room on June 29, 2016 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for IMG)

BERLIN, GERMANY – JUNE 29: A model walks the runway at the Philomena Zanetti show during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2017 at Stage at me Collectors Room on June 29, 2016 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for IMG)

BERLIN, GERMANY – JUNE 29: A model walks the runway at the Philomena Zanetti show during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2017 at Stage at me Collectors Room on June 29, 2016 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for IMG)

BERLIN, GERMANY – JUNE 29: A model walks the runway at the Philomena Zanetti show during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2017 at Stage at me Collectors Room on June 29, 2016 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for IMG)

BERLIN, GERMANY – JUNE 29: A model walks the runway at the Philomena Zanetti show during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2017 at Stage at me Collectors Room on June 29, 2016 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for IMG)

BERLIN, GERMANY – JUNE 29: A model walks the runway at the Philomena Zanetti show during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2017 at Stage at me Collectors Room on June 29, 2016 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for IMG)

BERLIN, GERMANY – JUNE 29: A model walks the runway at the Philomena Zanetti show during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2017 at Stage at me Collectors Room on June 29, 2016 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for IMG)

BERLIN, GERMANY – JUNE 29: A model walks the runway at the Philomena Zanetti show during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2017 at Stage at me Collectors Room on June 29, 2016 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for IMG)

BERLIN, GERMANY – JUNE 29: A model walks the runway at the Philomena Zanetti show during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2017 at Stage at me Collectors Room on June 29, 2016 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for IMG)

BERLIN, GERMANY – JUNE 29: A model walks the runway at the Philomena Zanetti show during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2017 at Stage at me Collectors Room on June 29, 2016 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for IMG)

BERLIN, GERMANY – JUNE 29: A model walks the runway at the Philomena Zanetti show during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2017 at Stage at me Collectors Room on June 29, 2016 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for IMG)

BERLIN, GERMANY – JUNE 29: A model walks the runway at the Philomena Zanetti show during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2017 at Stage at me Collectors Room on June 29, 2016 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for IMG)

BERLIN, GERMANY – JUNE 29: Designer Julia Leifert poses at the Philomena Zanetti show during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring/Summer 2017 at Stage at me Collectors Room on June 29, 2016 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for IMG) *** Local Caption *** Julia Leifert